Opening Dispatch

Summer's Best New Food Spots Aren't Brick-and-Mortar

Behold, the brewery burger collab, the seasonal soft-serve window, and the waterside food truck and cocktail shack that guarantee alfresco good times.

By Allecia Vermillion July 11, 2023

Soft-serve summer begins with a trip to the Pastry Project.

Seattle’s restaurant landscape teems with collaborations and popups and general creativity right now.  When you add that phenomenon to our current streak of summer weather, you get something really special. Here are three newcomers that make it easy to get outside.


Hinoki and Heave Ho (aka Saint Bread)

Portage Bay/University District

Saint Bread, the flat-out marvelous bakery perched in the Jensen Marina on Portage Bay, has added evening service. But not inside the bakery’s four walls. Now a multilevel space just beyond the bakery contains all the essential components for an outdoor evening of food and cocktails. A food truck, Hinoki, pairs Japanese influence with a wood-fired oven, yielding things like yam and pumpkin croquettes and some rich turkey meatballs. The menu’s geared toward snacks, but you can absolutely build a meal out of small dishes like roast cabbage with bacon or crisped pork belly. Especially if you throw in some chocolate cake with oreo and black sesame. Meanwhile, the Heave Ho waterside drink window pours cocktails, but also flask-size servings of “pocket sake,” plus beer and chilled wine. It’s a distinct combination, especially when you throw in the multiple courtyards of picnic tables and the sense that you’re whiling away a summer evening in a former shipyard. You can even kayak or stand-up paddleboard directly there.

Beast and Cleaver at 49th St

Ballard

While Fair Isle Brewing has distinguished itself as a proving ground for great popups, the Ballard brewery originally built its kitchen to host an in-house food program. Now it’s circling back to that original plan, with one hell of a partner. Fair Isle will soon turn its kitchen over, permanently, to Beast and Cleaver, the butcher shop with the soul of a restaurant. Beast and Cleaver’s sought-after burger will find a fixed home here, albeit in very limited quantities. This is great news, but I’m deeply interested in the rest of the menu, overseen by chef Jaimon Westing, who runs the ferment- and experimentation-heavy Amino popup. Westing describes this new outpost as a more casual, a la carte version of the Peasant, the tasting menu Beast and Cleaver runs on weekends. This means you could pair Fair Isle’s food-friendly saisons with a porterhouse with fermented black garlic, a grilled cabbage caesar salad, or some smoked potatoes with miso beurre blanc. Beast and Cleaver at 49th Street should open in early August (for the sake of clarity, this brewery does not allow minors). Everything, of course, tastes better in the beer garden.

The Pastry Project's Soft-Serve Window

Pioneer Square

During warm months, the Pioneer Square pastry training program turns its dutch doors into a soft-serve counter that flexes its baking prowess with some truly great toppings. This is the window’s third year and it’s turning into a bit of a summer tradition, not to mention a great reason to visit Pioneer Square (and a way to support the training of Seattle’s future pastry chefs). Choose from purple vanilla and chocolate milk soft serve, then unleash toppings like rainbow peanut crunch, coconut cake crumbs, or strawberry passion fruit hard-shell dip.

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