Canlis’s former executive sous chef will open his own restaurant in what was once the Tilth space. Johnny Courtney and his wife, Sarah, are planning a new spot called Atoma in the converted Wallingford craftsman at 1411 N 45th Street that housed Maria Hines’s groundbreaking organic restaurant for 14 years.

The couple has lived and worked in locales from Melbourne to Baja California. Those experiences will inform Johnny Courtney's menu, along with elements magpied from his parents’ Southern heritage, his own upbringing in New Mexico (where his mom was also a cook), and a stint in Denver. Not to mention lessons learned in Seattle’s finest-dining restaurant.

The chef spent five years at Canlis, working under both Brady Williams and Aisha Ibrahim. He was also part of the team that oversaw the yurt village during those interim months before Ibrahim’s arrival. Nothing really prepares you for the intensity of opening a restaurant, but Canlis’s deep-pandemic series of pivots probably comes close—“it gave me a crash course on opening a new restaurant each week,” says Courtney.

On the scale of fanciness and fine dining, the Courtneys say Atoma will land somewhere between Canlis and the casual-but-careful genre of restaurants more common in Seattle. "We think there's kind of a gap," says Sarah. They’re aiming for that sweet spot that makes sense for both special occasions and neighbors wandering in for a cocktail.

No surprise, Johnny Courtney’s food looks to be very detail-oriented. At a summer pop-up, Atoma served dishes like a sliced plum atop stracciatella in a ceviche-esque grilled plum consommé with fish sauce and lime. He traces this dish back to a plum and cheese banh mi with anchovies he remembers eating in Australia, remixed with memories of eating ceviche down in Todos Santos, Mexico. When plum season arrived in the Northwest, “it all came together in my head,” he recalls. “I’m hoping at that point, it was something uniquely Seattle.”

A savory rosette cookie, made with molds that once belonged to Sarah's grandfather, is a pop-up hit that might find its way onto the menu, perhaps filled with housemade cheese or chicken liver mousse. Atoma’s dishes will be a la carte, but diners can also opt for a tasting menu situation.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, it’s a tough landscape out there for anyone who wants to open a restaurant—especially in Seattle. It’s especially exciting when someone decides to just go for it and do something ambitious and challenging.

Atoma will do one final pop-up at Homer next month before the Courtneys shift their focus entirely to the new space. The Wallingford craftsman will get a refresh, designed to honor memories of Tilth, but give Atoma a new look all its own. The couple hopes to open in early November.

Other promising signs: Johnny and Sarah have strong opinions about service (warm, informal dinner party vibes), not just food. And about team culture: Atoma's opening staff includes some other Canlis alums, even former colleagues from Johnny Courtney's days in Denver. This spot sounds like the newcomer to watch this fall. Until then, you can track progress on Atoma’s Instagram.